If the pinot grigio story you’re telling yourself is one of cheap and easy (it can be), or doesn’t age well (it can), then the good news is, there’s plenty still to explore. They can be special, gastronomic whites offering a finely judged play of opulence, texture, weight and balance. This is a branch of pinot gris/grigio/grauburgunder formed expressly for meals and cheese. Not simple, chilled poolside refreshment (there are other grigios for that).
Sophisticated co-op, Cantina Tramin’s Unterebner bottling is golden yellow, dense and round with yellow pear, honeydew melon, straw and cut herbs.
Aged in large old oak. No stainless steel or slim, tapered racy bottles here. This has graceful power and weight. Its mouth-filling, glorious texture is suited to playing nicely with the semi-hard cheeses of its alpine relatives. Smokey herbal notes and pleasant bitterness on the finish perfectly holds the fruit in check.